Travel · Paris
One Electrolyte Away From Seeing the Light
Ninety-degree heat, a dream years in the making, and the questionable decision to let nothing stand between me and Roland Garros.
By Chilen Moya
There are moments during solo travel when you suddenly realize that the line between beautiful life experience and medical episode is thinner than expected.
Mine happened at Roland Garros under ninety-degree Paris heat while wearing a carefully chosen dress and pretending I was physically capable of enduring hours inside a clay stadium designed, apparently, to test human resilience.
At the beginning of the day, everything felt cinematic.
By the time I arrived around noon, the first set had already begun. The line outside Philippe-Chatrier stretched long enough that spectators had to wait until the changeover before being allowed inside. Standing there, dressed for a day I had imagined for years, I barely noticed the heat. I remember trying to find a patch of shade while we waited, only to learn that the shaded area was reserved for spectators leaving the grounds.
I didn’t care. I was finally there.
As soon as I walked into Philippe-Chatrier, my eyes instinctively searched for the phrase I had seen so many times on television:
Victory Belongs to the Most Tenacious.
For years those words had belonged to Rafael Nadal in my mind. Fourteen titles. Endless battles on clay. Roland Garros had always meant Rafa to me.
Years earlier, I had come to Roland Garros hoping to see Rafael Nadal inside Philippe-Chatrier. I couldn’t get tickets. Instead, I stood beneath an umbrella on a rainy day at Court Suzanne-Lenglen, watching him on a giant screen along with hundreds of other fans. I still have that umbrella. It reminds me that even an incomplete dream can become a cherished memory.
Years later, I returned to Roland Garros. Rafa had already retired, but Philippe-Chatrier had remained unfinished business. I wasn’t returning to chase the chance to see him anymore. I was there to watch another player I deeply admired, yet walking into the stadium itself felt like crossing the finish line of a journey that had begun years earlier.
This time, the dream felt different. I wasn’t outside the stadium anymore. I was finally inside it.
The clay looked nothing like television. It was richer, brighter, almost impossibly orange beneath the Paris sun. The stadium felt even larger than I had imagined, yet the players somehow seemed closer. The crowd was completely absorbed in every point. Watching Iga Świątek from that distance felt surreal after years of following her through interviews, highlights, and late-night matches across different time zones.
Every euro I had spent on that ticket suddenly made perfect sense. I don’t remember a single moment when I thought this was worth flying to Paris for. The truth is…the entire experience was.
The tennis was spectacular, but one of my favorite memories from that afternoon had nothing to do with the score.
The mother and daughter sitting beside me accidentally became one of my favorite memories of the day.
The daughter had unknowingly settled into my seat before realizing her mistake, which became our introduction. They were visiting from California and weren’t avid tennis fans. They simply happened to be in Paris and wanted to experience Roland Garros.
Throughout the match, the mother leaned over between points with quiet questions.
“Was that in?” “What does that mean?”
I answered in whispers because tennis has always felt sacred to me in that way. You don’t speak during rallies. The players deserve silence. The concentration required at that level is almost impossible to comprehend until you’re sitting close enough to hear the sound of the ball leaving the strings.
Somewhere during the first set, I accidentally became their unofficial tennis interpreter, and I loved every minute of it.
When the match ended, the daughter offered to take photographs of me closer to the court. Before we said goodbye, she playfully left a goofy selfie of herself on my phone. It still makes me smile.
Travel has a strange way of placing kind people in your path for only a few hours before they disappear back into their own lives.
Like most spectators, I stayed after the match instead of rushing for the exits. I wanted to hear Iga’s post-match interview. I wanted to watch her thank the crowd.
After crossing an ocean to be there, leaving early somehow felt impossible.
By then, though, the excitement that had carried me through the afternoon had begun competing with something else. The heat.
My dress clung to my skin; my bottle of water had become almost undrinkable.
Even my phone flashed a warning that it needed to cool down before functioning properly.
Ironically, my phone knew it needed a break before I did. I was too excited to notice that my body had been asking for one all along.
After Iga waved goodbye to the crowd, I finally made my way out of Philippe-Chatrier.
I stopped to buy a few souvenirs, treated myself to a gelato, and then asked a staff member where I could find an indoor restaurant.
That turned into its own endurance event. I asked one staff member. They pointed me somewhere else. The next person sent me in a different direction.
I kept walking beneath the afternoon sun, convinced that eventually someone would know where I was supposed to go.
Much later I discovered there had been a restaurant practically beside Philippe-Chatrier all along.
Looking back, it’s funny. At the time, it wasn’t.
Every unnecessary step quietly stole energy I didn’t realize I was losing.
Eventually I stopped long enough for champagne, water, chips, and finally a sandwich after realizing it was well past lunch.
At the neighboring table sat a Brazilian woman who, like me, was looking for something to eat herself. By the time her husband joined us, the conversation had shifted to tennis. They had come to watch Rafael Jódar, and I told them I thought he was an exciting new talent.
Thousands of people had gathered at Roland Garros, each carrying a different reason for making the journey.
Before leaving Roland Garros, I stopped one last time beside Rafa’s statue and the memorabilia on display. I took a photo, lingered for a few quiet moments, reading about his championships, and silently thanked the player who had made me fall in love with this place long before I ever sat inside Philippe-Chatrier.
With that quiet goodbye behind me, I finally turned toward the exit.
Only on the walk back toward the Uber pickup did the day finally catch up with me.
The crowds leaving the grounds merged with spectators arriving for the evening session. People brushed past one another in the heat while I tried to make my way toward the main road.
That was the first moment I realized something wasn’t right. Not dramatic. Just…wrong.
By the time I reached a nearby café to use as my pickup location, I wasn’t looking for coffee anymore. I was looking for relief.
Before I could finish asking my question, someone handed me a glass of water. Then another.
They invited me to sit down. We talked about Miami.
One of them wanted to visit someday because he dreamed of going to Space nightclub.
For twenty minutes, complete strangers cared for a woman they would probably never see again.
I have found that kind of generosity more often than coincidence alone can explain.
Back at the hotel, I took the longest shower imaginable. I ordered soup and large bottles of water.
I stayed inside for the rest of the evening feeling sunburned, exhausted, and mildly amused that my pursuit of one perfect tennis day had nearly ended with heat exhaustion.
But somewhere between the shower, the soup, and the silence, I kept thinking about the words I had read when I first walked into Philippe-Chatrier.
Victory Belongs to the Most Tenacious.
When I first saw them that afternoon, they reminded me of Rafael Nadal.
Later that night, they reminded me of something else.
A few years earlier, I couldn’t afford to sit inside that stadium.
This time, I bought the ticket myself.
Nobody had taken me to Paris. I had taken myself. Maybe that was the real victory.
Not surviving the heat. Not even seeing Iga. But realizing that, little by little, I had quietly become the person capable of giving herself the life she once only dreamed about.
And preferably…next time, with electrolytes.
Chilen Moya is the author of I Was an Unwanted Child, But I Always Loved Myself.
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